In addition to 90° corners, Marley also offers 135° corners in the RG 100/125 series. These can be used for an octagonal gazebo. If you need different angles, you can order them using the order form for custom corners at your local home improvement store.

Special elbows with various angles (< 90°) are available for all Marley gutters. The angle of the roof pitch can also be taken into account.

That won't hold, and the bond will break after a short time. That's why we weld the special corners.

No, the bond is a "cold weld" and cannot be broken. It can only be separated mechanically, by sawing it off.

The cleaner is not intended to remove dirt; its purpose is to degrease the surfaces to be bonded. This allows the gutter adhesive to penetrate the plastic more effectively and achieve an optimal bond (cold welding) between the gutter and the connecting shell.

Do not apply at temperatures below +5°C.

The semicircular gutter is a purely snap-fit system and must not be glued. If it were glued, there would be no controlled linear expansion, which could lead to deformation or similar issues.

No, the size of the downspouts, like the size of the gutter, depends on the roof area; therefore, it is not necessary to reduce or enlarge a downspout.

Yes, the gutters can be painted with Dulux Seidencolor or Glanzcolor, for example. You’ll need to apply a primer first. Be sure to follow the paint manufacturer’s recommendations. Why not save yourself the trouble of this time-consuming work and buy Marley gutters in special colors?

The Z-shaped bracket can be bent into shape.

No, you can only install one extension; it cannot be raised any further. The floor drain must be raised; there is no other option.

The cause is insufficient ventilation in that section of the pipe. Air can escape only with difficulty, if at all. If local conditions permit, you can provide additional ventilation or, as an immediate measure, drill a 2–3 mm hole in the center of the cover.

Yes, every backflow preventer—whether single or double—should be inspected at least once every six months. If dirt or debris is present: Remove the cover, clean the parts, check the seals, and replace any damaged parts. We recommend a complete inspection at least once every 12 months.

Yes, but you should replace the seals. You can get seals for vacuum systems from the respective supplier of central vacuum systems.

HT pipes are made of PP (polypropylene); this plastic is resistant to hot water up to 90°C. KG pipes are made of PVC (polyvinyl chloride) and are temperature-resistant up to 60°C.

HT pipes are made of PP (polypropylene); this plastic cannot be permanently bonded.

Single and double backflow preventers may only be installed in pipes carrying wastewater that does not contain fecal matter.

Marley pipe ventilators equalize pressure when negative pressure occurs in the sewer system, thereby preventing siphons and odor traps from being sucked dry. When there is no pressure, the pipe ventilator is closed and airtight. No odor nuisance! In a single-family home, at least one vent pipe must be routed above the roof! The pipe vent does not replace the main vent above the roof!

KG pipes (sewer main, orange) are approved exclusively for installation underground; the smallest diameter is DN 110. HT pipes (high-temperature, gray) are approved exclusively for indoor wastewater lines.

It is not sufficient to use a two-wire cable—that is, a live wire (L) and a neutral wire (N)—to utilize the run-on function. At least one control wire (L1), one live wire (L) for the delay function, and the neutral wire (N) must be present. Grounding is not required for the fans. Always follow the wiring diagram in the installation manual included with each fan.

The delivery distance or flow path refers to the distance from the point where the air is drawn in to the point where it is discharged into the open air. All fans have a specified delivery distance. This distance must not be exceeded under any circumstances, as doing so will significantly reduce the fans’ performance.

Yes, to do that, the Marley CS3-1B delay relay must be installed in the power supply.

Yes, in this case, the timer replaces the switch. To do this, fans P11 and P14 must be connected to the control current, continuous current, and neutral wire.

No, there is no provision for speed control on the fans.

No, there is no provision for speed control on the fans. No, a switch must be installed; otherwise, the electronics will not function properly.

Press and hold the “+” and “-” buttons simultaneously for at least 3 seconds. You can then change the power level by pressing the “+” or “-” button.

Once you start up the P12, it can run for up to half an hour; during this time, it determines the reference value for humidity. That’s why it’s important to wait until the fan turns off before adjusting the speed!

To reset the P12, you must disconnect it from the power supply for about 45 minutes.

Yes, the P11 fan is a continuous-duty fan that runs nonstop 24 hours a day. As a result, it provides user-independent basic ventilation in accordance with DIN standards and, at its lowest setting, moves 10 m³/h of air while consuming only about 1.1 watts of power.

No, the device is not defective; aside from the cable colors, you need at least a 4-wire cable. Terminal L carries the continuous current, terminal L1 (or SWL/TS/T) carries the switching current, and terminal N carries the neutral conductor. Ground is not required.

We do not recommend speed control, as it significantly reduces the fans' performance.

This is not recommended, as it significantly increases the duct resistance. The exhaust duct should always have the same diameter as the fan.

Marley fans are designed for indoor use only.

The maximum temperature for the fans is 40°C. The fans are designed for use in living spaces and must not be installed in stoves or saunas.

Each fan comes with a wiring diagram that also specifies the cable cross-section and the number of cables. For a simple fan with a switch and no delay, at least two connection cables (live wire L and neutral wire N) must be used. For a fan with a switch and a delay function, at least three connection cables (switching current L1, continuous current L, and neutral conductor N) must be used. Grounding is not required for these fans. Please note: The connection must be performed by a qualified technician.

During installation and operation, you can choose from the following settings:

1. Coast time of 0–20 minutes
2. Stop after airing out the room thoroughly
3. Stop after intensive ventilation and after-run
4. Switch from intermittent ventilation to continuous ventilation
5. After intensive ventilation and the delay period, switch to continuous ventilation
6. Automatically trigger intermittent ventilation when the humidity reaches a threshold value adjustable between 40% and 95%.
7. Automatic operation via the automatic humidity control system or manual operation via a switch

It is not sufficient to use a two-wire cable—that is, a live wire (L) and a neutral wire (N)—to utilize the run-on function. At least one control wire (L1), one live wire (L) for the delay function, and the neutral wire (N) must be present. Grounding is not required for the fans. Always follow the wiring diagram in the installation manual included with each fan.

The delivery distance or flow path refers to the distance from the point where the air is drawn in to the point where it is discharged into the open air. All fans have a specified delivery distance. This distance must not be exceeded under any circumstances, as doing so will significantly reduce the fans’ performance.

Yes, in this case, the timer replaces the switch.

No, speed control is not provided for the fans. Only on the P11 and P14 models can the fan speed be adjusted. Due to its design, a dimmer is not suitable for speed control.

No, a switch must be installed; otherwise, the electronics will not function properly.

Yes, all you need is a control current and a neutral wire, and the small red switch on the circuit board must be set to “off.”

The fans have a transparent sealing film on the back that functions similarly to a check valve.

ACL = continuous current, T = switching current, and ACN = neutral. The corresponding current must be present at all terminals when the fan is operated using a switch and a delay timer.

The small red switch on the circuit board must be set to “on.” In addition, the fan must be connected to a constant current, a switching current, and a neutral wire.

No, the device is not defective; aside from the cable colors, you need at least a 4-wire cable. Terminal L carries the continuous current, terminal L1 (or SWL/TS/T) carries the switching current, and terminal N carries the neutral conductor. Ground is not required.

We do not recommend speed control, as it significantly reduces the fans' performance.

This is not recommended, as it significantly increases the duct resistance. The exhaust duct should always have the same diameter as the fan.

Marley fans are designed for indoor use only.

The maximum temperature for the fans is 40°C. The fans are designed for use in living spaces and must not be installed in stoves or saunas.

Each fan comes with a wiring diagram that also specifies the cable cross-section and the number of cables. For a simple fan with a switch and no delay, at least two connection cables (live wire L and neutral wire N) must be used. For a fan with a switch and a delay function, at least three connection cables (switching current L1, continuous current L, and neutral conductor N) must be used. Grounding is not required for these fans. Please note: The connection must be performed by a qualified technician.

The fresh-air heat exchangers, which operate in pairs, function in a balanced manner; that is, the same amount of fresh air is supplied to the home as is exhausted to the outside. For room-air-independent fireplaces, the permissible negative pressure is 8 Pa (according to DIN 1946-T6). It is up to the chimney sweep responsible for the fireplace to determine whether an additional pressure switch must be installed. For room-air-dependent fireplaces, the permissible negative pressure is 4 Pa. In this case, you must install a pressure switch that shuts off the ventilation system if the pressure exceeds 4 Pa. Here, too, your local chimney sweep has the final say. However, the specific malfunction also plays a major role in this assessment. Factors to consider include the size of the building, the building’s airtightness, and the volume of air flowing in through the defective heat exchanger. For further information, please feel free to contact us via our contact form.

No, absolutely not! The rubber coating on the ceramic body would peel off. Figure 53 in the operating and installation instructions describes how to clean the ceramic body/heat exchanger insert.

In the Marley online store, under the "Replacement Parts" section, you'll find items such as outer grilles, ceramic blocks, filter cartridges, remote controls, etc.

The “error” occurs only in single-unit mode, specifically when the small red switch on the circuit board is set to “on.” The small red switch is located under the cover at the bottom left. The switch must always be set to “off” in single-unit mode.

No, the fresh-air heat exchanger is only suitable for horizontal installation. When installing it, make sure to maintain a 2% slope toward the outside.

Turn off the fresh air heat exchanger and then reconnect it using the remote control. See Figure 31 in the Operating and Installation Instructions.

The battery (CR2016 button cell) in the remote control is dead and should be replaced.

Yes, as long as there is at least 30–40 cm of space between the outside of the structure and the ground or the excavated surface. Please check the geotextile in the outer mesh regularly.

No, there is no humidity or temperature sensor built into the fresh-air heat exchanger, and the heat exchanger itself cannot be retrofitted with one.

A 3V CR2016 lithium battery.

No, you need the remote control to switch from one power level to the next or to turn on the device.

Yes, all fresh-air heat exchangers manufactured after August 2016 (see the date label on the circuit board) can be controlled via a timer. This is not possible with older fresh-air heat exchangers.

Pressing the “Summer Mode” button switches the heat exchanger to Stage I. In single-unit operation, the heat exchanger then only exhausts stale air from the building/room; the motor no longer switches modes. In dialog mode, both units switch to Stage I; one heat exchanger exhausts stale air from the building/room, while the second unit supplies fresh air into the building/room. The rotation direction does not switch even in dialogue mode. If the “Summer Mode” button is pressed again or the +/– buttons are pressed, the function ends. The desired power level can then be set by pressing the +/– buttons.

Use in damp rooms is generally permitted only in VDE Zone 3, and at least two fresh-air heat exchangers must be installed in accordance with the requirements of DIN 1946-6.
A unit with an IP20 protection rating, such as the AIR 4.0 / MEnV 180, may only be installed outside protection zones 0, 1, and 2 —that is, in areas where no exposure to splashing water is expected. Use near a shower or bathtub is not permitted.

With its DIBt approval, the MEnV 180 unit also meets the requirements of the EnEV, which stipulates a maximum permissible leakage rate of 5 m³/h at a pressure difference of +/- 10 Pa. The fresh air heat exchanger is considered a “hole” in the building envelope and must be sealed airtight on site—for example, with plastic sheeting—before the “blower door test” is performed. To do this, please remove the inner cover and seal the opening.

No, the preheated ceramic element heats the fresh air sufficiently so that no fresh air with sub-zero temperatures enters the living area.

No, the device can definitely be used in the winter.

Generally speaking, no, but the unit can be reinstalled using a custom-made attachment to be fabricated on-site.

Yes, there is an extension set (max. 66 cm) available for these applications, which can be ordered as an accessory from the Marley Online Store.

Yes, after thoroughly cleaning the surface, apply a plastic primer, then the base coat, and finally the clear coat.

The filter should be cleaned or replaced every 6 months, in accordance with the installation instructions. In addition, the main pipe and the ceramic body should be cleaned at that time. All parts that need to be cleaned are easily accessible from the inside.

No, a remote control is designed for a maximum of one pair of devices.

One MEnV180 is sufficient for approximately 20 m²—ideally, two units should always be paired together (pair operation). If the fresh-air heat exchangers cannot be installed in the same room, air coupling across two rooms must be ensured.

First, check the input voltage of 230 VAC using a multimeter (voltage tester) or similar device. If voltage is present, disconnect the device from the power source for about 1 minute. Then, please pair the remote control with the device again: To do this, simply press the “+” and “-” buttons simultaneously for about 10 seconds. The fan should now start up on its own, and the pairing is complete. If the green LED on your remote control is not lit, replace the battery before pairing.

Yes, aluminum composite pipes are available for both systems in diameters of 16, 20, and 26 mm. The pipes have been tested and approved for both systems and comply with DVGW regulations.

Every pipe end that is installed must be calibrated. This process not only “rounds off” the pipe end but also creates a bevel on both the inside and outside. This bevel on the pipe end is necessary to ensure that the seals in the fitting are not pushed out of place and damaged during the insertion process (see the AquaStec installation instructions). Otherwise, water damage could result. Tip: Use the calibration tool from the Marley AquaStec product line!

Yes, the drinking water line can be connected directly to an electric instantaneous water heater. When connecting to a hydraulic instantaneous water heater, a metal pipe at least 1 m long must be installed between them.

Yes, as a general rule, a pressure test should be performed by a professional company after installation! Otherwise, if water damage occurs, you may not be covered by your home contents insurance.

AquaStec can generally be used for heating systems; please be sure to observe the maximum flow rate for the various pipe diameters.

The pipes in the chilled water system are designed for an operating pressure of 12.5 bar at 20° C.

No, the system and the seals are not suitable for compressed air.

Your O-ring is probably not seated in the correct position. Unfortunately, this happens quite often when the cap nut on the fitting is slightly loosened and you then try to insert the pipe into the fitting.

1. Cut the pipe with plastic pipe shears.
2. Screw on the fitting—slide the union nut, clamping ring, and gasket onto the end of the pipe.
3. Push the end of the pipe into the fitting as far as it will go.
4. Tighten the union nut by hand—done and leak-proof!

All folding doors always have a zigzag pattern when closed. If the door is pulled taut, the soft PVC joints will be damaged.

Ideally once a year, or when the door no longer slides as smoothly as it did at first.

Use a soft cloth and mild household cleaners. Do not use scouring cream!

Use a fine-toothed saw and do it by hand—not with a circular saw!

Yes, the pieces are cut before they are glued in place.

Take a wide wooden or plastic wedge and wedge it between the track and the wall or door frame; this will allow you to easily pry the track loose. Start at the bottom with the track into which the lock profile fits, then move to the opposite side, and finally remove the upper slide track.

No, you simply need two single doors, which are installed on opposite sides of the door frame. However, due to the design of the locking mechanism, only the President and NewGeneration models are suitable for this.

Because Marley deliberately avoids such a "tripping hazard." Furthermore, Marley doors are so technically sophisticated that a floor guide would not improve their functionality.

No, then the flaps inside the DUO won't open or close anymore.

Yes, using the 150 x 80 mm flat duct, with a maximum length of 1 m, for both supply and exhaust air.

HT pipes are the best choice because they can withstand temperatures up to 90°C and have smooth inner walls. This significantly reduces pipe resistance. Next is the Alu-Flex hose.

No, that would disrupt the entire balance of the ventilation system. Only a standard grille or one with a pull cord can be installed.

Open fireplaces used in combination with range hoods can cause carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide to be drawn into the system. To prevent this, the licensed district chimney sweep must specify which safety devices must be installed. With the DUO exhaust and supply air system, a slight negative pressure is created in the room because the supply air damper opens first. Since much depends on local conditions—which we are not familiar with—only the responsible district master chimney sweep can provide you with information on what must be installed in these cases.

The flexible hose with a spring wire spiral is the most cost-effective option, but it offers the highest resistance. The best solution is to use HT pipes for the extension, since HT pipes are suitable for the high temperatures (approx. 90 °C) produced by the clothes dryer.

Warm air can absorb and carry away a large amount of water, so it should cool down as late as possible. This can be achieved with good insulation. The exhaust duct that runs through the cold attic should be insulated with at least 10 cm of mineral wool.

From a fluid dynamics perspective, reducing the diameter is not recommended. It is best if the exhaust duct always has the same diameter.

The diameter depends on the exhaust airflow rate of the range hood. For airflow rates up to 250 m³/h, the 100 flat duct system or the Ø 100 round duct system is sufficient. For exhaust air flow rates up to approximately 600 m³/h, the customer can choose between the 125 flat duct system or the Ø 125 round duct system. For exhaust air flow rates up to 1,000 m³/h, the 150 flat duct system or the Ø 150 round duct system should be selected.

The flat ducts can be glued together using PVC adhesive, but this is not required. We recommend sealing the joints with 50-mm-wide adhesive tape, as this will allow the duct system to be disassembled for cleaning purposes.

We do not recommend installing the flat ducts in concrete. The flat ducts are designed for wall mounting. You can install our round pipe systems (Ø 100, 125, and 150) in concrete. To prevent the transmission of structure-borne noise, you should wrap the pipes with an insulating sleeve.

The maximum operating temperature for fans ranges from 40 to 45°C, depending on the model; flat ducts and ventilation grilles made of PVC plastic retain their shape up to 60°C.

With drip irrigation, water and nutrients are delivered drop by drop directly to the plant's roots. This allows for precise control of water supply and ensures highly efficient water use. The SMART & GREEN drip irrigation system is the fastest and easiest way to water shrub beds, narrow strips, or areas adjacent to buildings, walls, sidewalks, and streets. The hose is laid on the ground, secured at regular intervals with ground stakes, and optionally covered with soil or mulch.

Drip irrigation uses between 30% and 70% less water than a surface irrigation system, while allowing plants to grow up to 50% faster. Water loss due to evaporation and wind is effectively prevented. Thanks to the slow and regular delivery of water directly to the roots, plants grow faster, healthier, and with less stress. In addition, the soil remains looser and is better aerated, which also promotes plant growth. SMART & GREEN drip irrigation products are easy to install. They are also ideal for areas where sprinklers cannot be used, such as along house walls. With drip irrigation, you can adapt watering to any type of garden bed. By watering directly at the roots, you can prevent unsightly white, brown, and even scorched spots on flowers and leaves. It also helps prevent the spread of fungi.

Drip irrigation is suitable for all shrub, flower, and vegetable beds, as well as hedges. You’ll be surprised by the fuller blooms and greater beauty when you water your plants and fruit and vegetable beds with drip irrigation.

Accidental damage is easy to spot because a puddle forms above ground. To repair the hose, simply cut off the damaged section and connect a new piece of hose using the appropriate components. Available from the manufacturer, Netafim. All you need is a knife. The Marley SMART & GREEN Hunter® HC irrigation controller detects irregularities in water consumption and alerts you to them. This gives you double the assurance that no water is being wasted due to a leak.

The 50-meter Hedge and Bed Kit uses the Netafim UniTechline tubing. Each dripper contains a physical root barrier that prevents roots from entering the tubing.

To prevent your irrigation system from being damaged by frost, you should take precautions. Before the first frost, remove the pressure-reducing unit and store it in a dry place over the winter. Open all hose ends and let the remaining water drain out of the hoses. Alternatively, you can use a compressor to blow the irrigation system empty so that no water remains in the hoses to freeze. Make sure the pressure does not exceed 4 bar to prevent damage to the components.

For example, the SMART & GREEN Allotment Garden Kit can also be watered using a rain barrel. The barrel must be placed at a height of 1.5 meters to ensure sufficient pressure. Keep in mind that during hot summers, the water from the barrel may not be enough, and additional water will be needed. The SMART & GREEN drip irrigation kits can also be connected to rainwater tanks via a garden irrigation system or well pumps.

Do you already have an irrigation system in your garden and want to add drip irrigation? To do this, you’ll need an additional irrigation line for the drip irrigation system. This can be easily connected to a cold-water line using couplings. For automatic irrigation, you’ll need an additional solenoid valve to which you can connect the drip irrigation line. This allows you to control the drip irrigation automatically via your computer as well.

We recommend a pipe diameter of 32 mm for installing a sprinkler irrigation system. A diameter of 25 mm is sufficient for the drip irrigation line. The drip irrigation tubing with the pressure-reducing unit is connected to the cold-water line via a fitting.

Even though it may seem that way at first glance, the SMART & GREEN drip irrigation system is not just a garden hose with holes. The drippers are pressure-compensating and ensure an even water flow at every dripper along the entire length of the tubing. This means the last plant receives exactly as much water as the first. The drippers in the Hedge and Bed Set also feature a vacuum protection mechanism that prevents dirt particles from being sucked in. The tubing is self-cleaning and resistant to clogging. This means it can also be installed underground.

No, unfortunately that's not possible. The pipe from the hedge and flower bed kit can be laid underground. The other pipes should be laid above ground, but they can be easily hidden under bark mulch or something similar.

No, a complete irrigation system with a computer and a cold-water line is not necessary. The drip tubes can also be connected to a garden hose if needed. Even with this solution, you’ll enjoy the benefits of low water consumption and gentle watering of your plants.

No, the drip tube is flexible enough that you can lay it in wide curves around the plants. All the components needed to install the drip tube are included in the kits. The only additional items you’ll need are those required to connect it to your water source.

The watering duration depends on the plants and the temperature. Therefore, there is no one-size-fits-all answer. Overview of water flow in liters per hour: Balcony and Potted Plant Kit: 2 L/h (pressure-compensated) Vegetable and Flower Bed Kit: 2 L/h at 1 bar Hedge and Flower Bed Kit: 1.6 L/h (pressure-compensated) Allotment Garden Irrigation Kit: 2 L/h at 1 bar You can use this information to estimate approximately how long the watering should last. Observe how the plants are developing and adjust the watering duration accordingly. Also adjust the duration based on current weather conditions.

Installation depends on the conditions in your garden. Typically, the drip tube is laid in straight rows directly alongside the plants. For larger plants, you can also lay two tubes parallel to each other so that each plant receives water from two sides. The tubing can also be bent to form a U-shape or to loop around the plants. Make sure that smaller plants have fewer drippers nearby than larger ones, so that the larger plants receive a correspondingly greater amount of water. In our Marley Garden, we’ve laid the drip tubing in loops around the plants, since they aren’t arranged in rows.